The PUSH 11-6 is the shorthand many riders use for PUSH’s ELEVENSIX rear shock, and the reason it still matters is simple: it is built to give a bike more grip, more support, and more control than a standard coil setup. In this guide I break down how the shock works, what the adjustment range really changes on the trail, who it suits best, and where the cost and servicing trade-offs start to matter. If you ride rough descents, wet roots, or steep UK terrain, the details here are more important than the badge on the body.
The ELEVENSIX is for riders who want grip first and compromise later
- It is a coil rear shock with a dual-valve damping layout, so it can switch between a plush descending feel and a firmer climbing mode.
- The current S-Series spec includes 24 clicks of low-speed compression, 28 clicks of high-speed compression, and 16 clicks of rebound.
- PUSH also offers an e-MTB version with stronger hardware and revised damping parts for heavier, more demanding bikes.
- Factory starting points are published for different terrain types, which makes setup easier if you begin from the right baseline.
- As of 2026, PUSH lists the shock at $1,300 in the US and recommends annual service.
What the ELEVENSIX is designed to do
The ELEVENSIX is not meant to be a generic coil shock with a fancy badge. It is a premium rear damper built for riders who care about traction, chassis support, and end-stroke control as much as raw suppleness. In plain terms, the shock is trying to make the bike feel calm and connected when the trail gets rough, while still giving you enough platform to pedal without feeling like the rear end is wasting energy.
I see that as the core appeal: it sits in the space between a straightforward coil shock and a more heavily tuned race part. That is why it makes sense on aggressive trail bikes, enduro bikes, and e-MTBs, especially when the terrain is technical rather than smooth. Once you know what it is aiming to do, the interesting part is how the two-valve layout changes the ride feel.
| Specification | What it means on the trail |
|---|---|
| Dual overhead valve design | Two damping circuits let the shock feel more open for descending or firmer for climbing. |
| 24 low-speed compression clicks | Lets you tune support for pedalling, braking, and rider movement. |
| 28 high-speed compression clicks | Helps control sharper hits and bigger compressions without turning the bike harsh. |
| 16 rebound clicks | Controls how quickly the shock returns after an impact. |
| Hydraulic bottom-out control | Slows the last part of travel so the shock does not slam into the end of stroke. |
| Standard eyelet or trunnion mount | Fits a wide range of modern frames, but the eye-to-eye and stroke still have to match. |
| E-MTB version available | Heavier pedal-assist bikes get stronger shafts and updated damping hardware. |
That is the hardware story. The ride story is better told through the shock’s two personalities, because that is where the ELEVENSIX feels genuinely different from most coil shocks.
How the dual-valve system changes the ride
Low-speed compression is the setting that controls chassis movement from pedalling, pumping, braking, and body weight shifts; high-speed compression deals more with square-edge hits and sharper impacts. PUSH’s advantage is that it does not force you into one compromise setting all the time. Instead, the shock has two distinct ride modes, so you can move between a more open downhill character and a firmer, more efficient climbing character on the fly.That matters more than it sounds. On a bike with good suspension kinematics, the right rear shock can make the whole chassis feel tighter, calmer, and easier to place. On a bike with less helpful frame progression, the shock has to work harder, which is why a design with proper end-stroke control and a real second mode can be worth the extra cost.
| Factory mode | LSC | HSC | Where I would start with it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plush DH | 16 out from full closed | 14 out from full closed | Steep, rough descents where grip matters most. |
| Firm DH | 12 out from full closed | 14 out from full closed | Fast trails when you want more support without going full climb mode. |
| Firm climb | 4 out from full closed | 10 out from full closed | Long climbs, fire roads, and repeated seated efforts. |
| Fast/flowy jump line | 8 out from full closed | 10 out from full closed | Smoother bike-park laps where extra support helps the bike stay lively. |
“Full closed” means turning the adjuster clockwise until it stops, then counting clicks back out. I would treat those settings as a baseline, not a verdict. If you start from the right mode, the shock feels polished much faster; if you start from the wrong one, you can waste an afternoon chasing a problem that was really just a poor starting point.
The other piece that matters is bottom-out control. PUSH uses a hydraulic system that ramps up resistance near the end of travel, which is a sensible idea on a coil shock because coil springs are naturally linear. In practice, that should let the rear end stay supple through the first part of the stroke while still resisting the hard clunk that ruins confidence on bigger hits. That balance is what makes the shock interesting on real trails, which leads straight into the question of where it actually makes sense to run one.
Where it makes sense on British trails
For the kind of riding many UK riders see, the ELEVENSIX makes immediate sense on paper. Wet roots, off-camber compressions, steep chutes, braking bumps, and muddy natural descents all reward a rear shock that keeps the tyre in contact with the ground. That is exactly where I expect this shock to shine: it should help the bike track more cleanly, resist getting kicked off line, and stay composed when the trail gets messy.
Where it becomes less compelling is on smoother, more playful terrain. If your local loop is mostly trail-centre flow, jump lines, and fast pedalling with only occasional rough sections, the bike may feel more planted than lively. That is not a flaw, but it is a trade-off. A coil shock with this much support tends to make the bike feel a little more mini-DH than poppy, and some riders will love that while others will prefer a lighter, simpler air shock.
- Best fit: enduro bikes, aggressive trail bikes, and e-MTBs that spend more time descending than sprinting around mellow loops.
- Best conditions: rough, wet, rooty, or heavily braked terrain where rear-wheel grip is worth more than a playful feel.
- Less convincing: XC bikes, smoother trail bikes, or riders who care more about low weight than damping sophistication.
- Watch-outs: very linear frame leverage curves, tight shock clearance, and bikes that need a carefully chosen spring rate to avoid over-reliance on damping.
That is why setup matters so much. The wrong spring or the wrong baseline can hide most of the good stuff, and that is the part many riders underestimate before they buy.
Getting the setup right from day one
If I were fitting one, I would start with fitment and spring rate before touching any clickers. Eye-to-eye, stroke, and mount type have to match the frame exactly, and the spring needs to put the bike into the sag window the frame designer intended. A shock can only feel as good as the chassis around it allows, so this is not a place to guess.
- Confirm the exact mount type, eye-to-eye length, and stroke for your frame.
- Choose the correct spring rate before chasing compression settings.
- Start from PUSH’s published factory mode for the kind of terrain you ride most.
- Change one thing at a time and test it on the same section of trail.
- Recheck rebound after the first few rides, because a spring that is close can still feel wrong if rebound is too fast or too slow.
| Problem | What I would check first |
|---|---|
| Bike feels wallowy when pedalling | Use the firmer mode, then add a little low-speed compression before assuming the spring is too soft. |
| Small bumps feel busy and harsh | Open the compression a touch and make sure the spring is not over-stiff for your weight. |
| Hard bottom-outs on bigger hits | Do not just clamp down damping; first confirm the spring rate and sag are right. |
| Rear end feels slow or packed down | Speed up rebound a click or two and retest on a rough descent. |
I like that approach because it keeps the shock honest. The ELEVENSIX gives you a lot of room to tune, but that only helps if you use it methodically rather than turning random dials and hoping the bike magically improves. Once the setup is close, the remaining question is whether the price and service routine make sense for your riding.
Buying and servicing it in 2026
As of 2026, PUSH lists the S-Series at $1,300 in the US, which puts it firmly in the premium bracket. The company also backs it with a 60-day performance guarantee and delivers the shock with a starting tune and the right hardware so it is closer to ride-ready than a bare chassis part. For UK buyers, the landed cost will be higher once exchange rate, shipping, and tax are added, so this is the kind of purchase where fitment and local support matter more than shaving a few pounds off the sticker price.
Servicing is not optional if you want the shock to stay at its best. PUSH recommends an annual service interval of 12 months, and that is a realistic expectation for a high-end coil shock used on muddy, gritty, all-weather terrain. A proper rebuild replaces seals and wear parts, refreshes the fluids, and restores the nitrogen charge, which is exactly the sort of maintenance that keeps a premium damper feeling premium.
- Check that your frame accepts the correct mount type before ordering.
- Make sure the spring rate you need is actually available for your weight.
- Budget for service rather than treating the shock as a one-time purchase.
- If possible, buy through a dealer or shop that understands suspension setup, not just part numbers.
I would also think about how often you change bikes. A shock like this makes more sense if it will stay on a frame long enough for you to enjoy the tuning and forget the price. If you swap bikes constantly, the value drops fast because the best part of the ELEVENSIX is how well it is matched to a specific frame and rider.
The decision I would make before spending the money
If I were choosing for a UK trail bike, I would buy the ELEVENSIX only when the frame, riding style, and budget all point in the same direction. That means technical descending, enough travel to benefit from coil suppleness, and a rider who actually wants to tune and service the shock properly. In that scenario, it is a serious piece of suspension, not a gimmick.
If the bike is mostly used for smoother trail centres, long pedal days, or general all-round riding where weight and simplicity matter more, I would look at a high-end air shock first. The ELEVENSIX is at its best when traction and composure are worth more than outright liveliness. For the right rider, that is a meaningful upgrade; for everyone else, it is an expensive way to buy performance they may never fully use.
