This article breaks down what the PUSH HC97 does inside a RockShox fork, who it suits, what to check before buying, and how it compares with a full fork swap. I am focusing on the practical side: ride feel, compatibility, tuning range, and the real cost of taking the upgrade seriously.
The main takeaways before you decide on the upgrade
- It is a damper upgrade, not a coil conversion, so it changes compression control rather than the fork chassis itself.
- The biggest attraction is tuning range: 28 clicks of low-speed compression and 28 clicks of high-speed compression.
- Compatibility matters more than marketing; on Pike forks, 15x100 mm is not compatible, while 15x110 mm with a Charger 2 or 2.1 damper is.
- It is best for riders who like their current fork chassis but want more control, less harshness, and a wider setup window.
- In UK retail, current listings I found sit around £275 before fitting, so this is a specialist upgrade rather than a casual spend.
- If the fork is already worn or overdue for service, I would fix the basics first and treat the damper upgrade as the second step.
The PUSH HC97 is an aftermarket compression-system upgrade for compatible RockShox forks, and the reason it gets attention is simple: it tries to give a stock Charger damper a much wider, more useful adjustment range without changing the fork into something unrecognisable. For riders who are close to liking their fork but keep hitting a wall with setup, that is the exact kind of upgrade that can make sense.
What matters is not just the part itself, but how it changes the way the fork responds to braking bumps, repeated square edges, and the slower compressions that shape confidence on real trails. That is where the value of this kit either becomes obvious or disappears, depending on the fork and the rider.
What the hc97 actually changes inside the fork
Inside a compatible RockShox Charger damper, the HC97 replaces the stock compression assemblies with a more adjustable system. In plain English, it gives you more control over how the fork resists compression at both low speed and high speed, which is the difference between a fork that feels vaguely close and one that can be tuned with real intent.
The standout numbers are worth repeating because they are the whole point: 28 clicks of low-speed compression and 28 clicks of high-speed compression. Low-speed compression affects support during body movement, braking, pumping, and gentle chassis pitch. High-speed compression deals with faster impacts, such as sharp roots, rocks, and square-edged hits.
Push also uses a parabolic needle for the low-speed adjuster. A parabolic needle is a needle-shaped adjuster that changes oil flow more evenly across the range, so each click feels more meaningful instead of clumping all the useful settings into a tiny middle section. The high-speed side uses a shim-less valve design, and a shim is a thin metal washer that flexes to control oil flow. Removing that style of valve stack is meant to reduce harshness and keep the damper more composed when hits come in fast and close together.
The kit also includes rebound re-valve shims, which matters because a change on the compression side can expose weaknesses elsewhere in the damper. That is the sort of detail I respect: it suggests the kit was built as a proper system, not a cosmetic cartridge swap. Once you understand that, the next question is how all of that actually feels on the trail.
How it changes fork feel on real trails
A fork like this should not be judged by a parking-lot bounce test. What matters is whether it stays calm when the trail gets busy. The HC97 is aimed at riders who want more traction and small-bump sensitivity without losing mid-stroke support, and that balance is where the better forks earn their keep.
In practice, the upgrade tends to make sense in three situations.
- Repeated chatter: the fork can feel less “stacked up” and less like it is fighting itself through fast successive hits.
- Steeper or harder trails: more usable compression range means it is easier to find support without running the fork overly harsh.
- Light or heavy riders at the edges of the stock tune: if you always end up nearly fully open or almost fully closed, the extra range is the real benefit.
The part I would not oversell is the idea that a damper upgrade can solve every front-end problem. If your fork already has bushing bind, dry seals, poor spring rate, or worn lowers, the HC97 will not magically remove those issues. I would also be cautious about expecting a chassis change. The fork will still feel like the same fork, just with a much better way to control its movement. That distinction matters before you decide whether your bike is actually compatible.
Compatibility checks that matter before you buy
This is the section I would read twice before spending money. Suspension upgrades get messy when riders assume that a fork name alone is enough. It is not. You need to confirm the fork family, damper generation, axle or hub spacing where relevant, and whether the fork is one of the versions that the kit was built around.
| Check | What to verify | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Damper family | Charger 2 or Charger 2.1 | The HC97 is built around those compression architectures, not every RockShox damper. |
| Pike hub spacing | 15x110 mm only | 15x100 mm Pike forks use a coarse thread pitch stanchion tube and are not compatible. |
| Fork generation | Confirm the exact fork and SKU, not just the model family | Retail listings have varied over time, so the safe move is to verify the exact configuration. |
| Damper generation changes | Check whether your fork uses a newer architecture such as Charger 3 | I would not assume compatibility with newer damper families unless the listing says so clearly. |
| Fork condition | No play, no abnormal noise, service history up to date | A worn fork should be serviced before you ask more from the damper. |
The strict Pike note is the one that catches people out most often: 15x100 mm is a hard no, while 15x110 mm with a Charger 2 or 2.1 damper is the workable path. If you are dealing with a different fork family, I would verify the exact SKU rather than trust forum shorthand. That leads naturally into the install and setup side, because fitment is only half the job.
Installation and tuning without guesswork
This is not a basic bolt-on accessory. You are opening a damper, so I would treat the job as a suspension service rather than an afternoon parts swap. If you have never worked inside a Charger damper before, a specialist shop is the sensible route. If you are comfortable with internal suspension work, the assembly and rebound tuning guides are there for a reason: follow them closely.
My practical checklist is straightforward.
- Start with a fork that is already clean and properly serviced.
- Use the correct HC97 guide for your Charger version, because Charger 2.0 and Charger 2.1 are not identical in the details that matter.
- Make one adjustment at a time when testing, otherwise you will not know what actually improved the fork.
- Pay attention to rebound after changing compression, because the fork can feel “good” in one direction and sluggish in the other if you skip the balance step.
I would also avoid the common mistake of chasing clicks before checking spring setup. If the air spring pressure or token setup is wrong, no compression cartridge will fully rescue the fork. Set the chassis and spring curve first, then use the damper to refine the feel. That order saves time and prevents the kind of tuning spiral that makes riders blame the wrong component.
What UK riders should budget and expect
In the UK, the HC97 sits in the specialist-upgrade bracket. Current listings I found are around £275 for the kit itself, which is a serious spend but still usually less painful than replacing the whole fork. If you add workshop fitting, the total rises, and if you buy from outside the UK you also need to think about shipping, VAT, and any handling charges.
That pricing context matters because it changes the decision. The HC97 is not a casual “while I am here” upgrade. It is something I would buy when the fork chassis is already the right one for the bike and the rider, but the damping still leaves room on the table. In that case, the cost is easier to justify because you are improving a part you already trust instead of paying for a completely different chassis.
Here is the simplest way I would compare the options.
| Option | Best for | Main tradeoff |
|---|---|---|
| Stock Charger 2 / 2.1 | Riders happy with the current feel who only need maintenance | Less usable tuning range and fewer ways to fine-tune harshness or support |
| HC97 upgrade | Riders who like the fork chassis but want more control and better trail feel | Internal install, higher cost than a normal service, more setup time |
| New fork or newer damper architecture | Riders who want a different chassis feel or the latest OEM design | Highest cost and usually the biggest change in overall bike balance |
If I were advising a rider in the UK, I would say this: buy the kit when the fork is already a keeper, and leave it alone when the fork itself is the limitation. That is the line between a smart upgrade and an expensive distraction. From there, the final decision comes down to how much the fork is already doing right.
The decision rule I use when a rider is on the fence
My rule is simple. If the fork chassis is solid, the fit is correct, and the current damping is the only thing holding the bike back, the HC97 is a legitimate upgrade. It gives you a wider, more usable adjustment window, and it does that without turning the bike into a different machine.
I would skip it if the fork is overdue for service, if the chassis is too flexy for your riding, or if you are hoping a damper cartridge will fix a spring-rate mistake. It will not. The best results come when the fork is already close and you are trying to remove the last bit of compromise. That is exactly where the HC97 earns its keep.
If you want the shortest possible version of my view, it is this: buy the damper upgrade when you want more control from a fork you already like, and spend the money elsewhere when the fork itself is the real problem. That is the difference between a worthwhile suspension change and a mod that only feels clever on paper.
